GSH 2019 – The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

Hang on to your seat… this is going to be fast and furious.  We've had a whirlwind scramble through the amazing country of Jordan.  We had only 3 days … and a lot to see and do. So Rainey and I took off at a pace as soon as Bill opened the leg. We went upstairs to our beautiful and luxurious hotel room in Amman, packed a back-pack with 2 days of clothes and headed straight out in search of adventure. We did not return until minutes before check-in.  And we did not sleep more than 4-5 hours each night. A tough leg, but one with lots of rewards.

The mood of the country:  In each leg, Bill makes us accost people from that country and ask them pertinent questions.  In Jordan, that meant that we had to chat about the royal family as well as the impact of the Syrian refugee crisis.  We met Izzie at a restaurant by the Dead Sea. He studied in Austin, Texas  for almost 2 years so his English was great. 

The answers: Jordanians had a very strong crush on King Hussein (the prior king) ... they truly loved him.  As to the his son, Abdullah (the new King), they like and respect him without the same level of adoration.  As for the Syrian war, Jordan, a country of only 9 million people, limited GDP and no natural resources (that’s right, a Middle Eastern country that is not awash with oil or dripping with money) has taken in 1.5 million Syrian refugees.  Think about that.  Adding almost 10% of your country's population in 3 years. In comparison, the United States (a country of 327 million people) accepted in 2018... wait for it... 34.  That is with no zeros. We took in 34 Syrians refugees.  Meanwhile Jordan built a giant cities of tent and mobile homes to house the refugees.  Izzie showed me photos of one of them, Zaatari camp, on his phone.  Just the logistics of feeding and housing that many people - who arrive with nothing but the clothes on their backs - is mind-boggling.

It’s been a real burden on the country but Jordanians consider it their duty ... as global citizens. Plus the refugees are apparently great workers with a  strong work ethic and high skill / training abilities.  Jordan is definitely whooping America at the Good Karma game.

Wadi Rum:  I had never been to Wadi Rum and, because it is far and remote, we’d considered skipping it.  So glad we didn’t.  It’s special.  We arrived just before sunset so the whole valley with its craggy cliffs and sandy plain was awash with a soft glow.  We headed into the desert, sitting in the bed of a 4-wheel truck and rode camels like we were Lawrence of Arabia.  We decided at the last minute to spend the night and sleep in a Bedoin tent camp.  NOT the lap of luxury, but so interesting.

The tent accommodations were rudimentary - at best. I dreamed of getting some obscure camel tick disease.  And the ultra colorful cloth walls were an interesting design choice.

Petra:  If Petra is not already on your bucket list, get out your pen - RIGHT NOW- and add it.  Because Petra is a MUST SEE.  Ornate temples and buildings carved out of the cliffs in a gorge.  Who even thought of this?  

Rainey and I wanted to be there at dawn, right when the gates open, so we could have some time to wander about without the crushing crowds.  That meant we had to leave Wadi Rum at 3:45AM (YIKES… that’s a very early wake-up alarm).  But it was the right decision because we went in before the tourist buses and the throngs of people arrived.  We decided to walk all the way through Petra and then climb the craggy hill to the Monastery… not an easy feat.  It is an hour and a half uphill hike in the heat.  And I will admit that there may have been a small heat and dehydration induced whiney hissy fit about 45 minutes into the hike … when I realized that we still had an equal distance to climb.  There may have been some pouting and some clear assertions of “I’m done;” “I’ve had enough;” and “I can’t do this.” But then you round the last corner… and there it is... in all it's glory.  Spectacular and worth every sweltering step.

Petra donkeys: I watched while the lead donkey dug around in the garbage, fished out a half-finished cup of coffee, and then drank it.  Totally cute....and ... what a clever ass (Ha Ha). 

Mimicking Moses:  We had to retrace Moses’steps up Mount Nebo and then stand at the exact spot where Moses supposedly rested.  I have a strong sense that no one actually knows the spot and that it is all tourism gimmickry, but the modern cross marking the place was interesting.

Mabada Map:  We had to find the ancient mosaic map in Madaba.  Sounds easy, right? But when we got to the quaint church - where the map is – the priest was in the middle of a LENGTHY and complicated mass, with lots of incense and sitting and standing and kneeling.  The map is made of mosaic tiles and is on the floor of the church.  For services, they cover the map with a thick carpet so prevent any damage from people walking on the map.  So we got stuck for over an hour, while waiting for the church service to end so the carpet could be rolled up and we could snap a quick photograph. 

Jerash: Less than an hour North of Amman are some fascinating ancient ruins.  If any place in America had something half as cool as this, that city would be a tourism magnet.  In Jordan, the ruins of Jerash as just in the middle of the city with buses passing by and blowing diesel residue all over the ruins. Hard to compete when Petra is the main attraction.

Hubbly Bubbly:  A trip to the Middle East would not be complete without a trip to a Hubbly Bubbly bar.  Flavored tobacco and a water pipe… and I’m coughing up a lung.

Blue mosque:  Also known as the Amman Mosque or King Abdullah Mosque (who is the current King).  I love the blue mosaic tiles on the doomed roof.

Hand of Hercules: Last and final hour in Jordan… and we came very close to a disaster.  Part of the rules of this competition is that you must complete several MANDATORY scavenges in each country.  If you don’t finish the mandatories, you lose ALL points for that leg.  Yikes !!!  Strategizing about how and when to complete the mandatories is totally stressful because there is so much on the line.  But, coming in to the last hour of the Jordan leg, we were feeling pretty good. We had only ONE final mandatory to complete and then off to check-in.  And it was supposed to be easy.  We had to get to the Amman Citadel and find the Hand of Hercules. We take a taxi.  We get out.  We walk to the gate.  Wait… its locked. The Citadel closed 12 minutes before.  But, but, but … we must get this mandatory or we lose everything.  I started freaking out.  Rainey and I began hunting for ways out of this mess. And we figured out that a little money, in the hands of the right security guard at the Citadel, can get a back gate unlocked and – suddenly – you are there, standing in front of a scattering of body parts from a broken up Hercules statue… and there’s his hand.  If I could have reached it, I’d have laid a big smoochy kiss on each finger.  Crisis averted.

Amazing how beauty can flourish even in the most barren of places.

Next up… Athens, Greece.  We only have 30 hours here and a book of scavenges to get accomplished. Rainey and I are still in first place, but it’s a tight competition.  We have no room for error.   We must plot and strategize perfectly and then spend some time in the Hurt Locker going hard to stay head of team Lazy Monday, who are nipping at our heels. To  be honest, I am exhausted from the Jordan leg where we got very little sleep.  Got to find my second wind.

We’re off and running.