Friday, January 4, 2013

Lush hilltops to the sweat of Mumbai

With some shame but also great glee, I admit it, we have maneuvered around some obstacles and ended up getting to Mumbai much quicker than expected.
The problem started on our 250KM trip from Barmer to Mount Abu on Day 2. It took us 11 1/2 hours - almost double the amount of time we'd expected. We did not reach the foot of Mount Abu until almost dusk and then had to start an essentially straight-uphill climb after dark. It was the most harrowing experience of my life. The Tuk Tuk lights are weak at best and our windshields are almost opaque so to see anything at night is virtually impossible. The road up to Mount Abu is 497 hair pin bends and Indians apparently believe it is safest to overtake the car in front of you in the middle of those bends so you have no idea from moment to moment if you are going to crash into some huge lorry coming down the hills (with its bright lights on - just to blind you further). I imagined plunging off the side of the cliff to our death every second of the almost hour uphill. Thank God for the calm of the three guys who just put on their full concentration and tested their driving skills to the limit. Plus our poor Tuk Tuks were struggling... huffing and puffing and sounding downright pathetic. We all imagined that at one point we'd end up pushing one or more of them up the mountain. We all were giddy with hysteria when we finally made the top of the hill.
First thing the next morning we did the calculations and realized that - at our speed - we were never going to make the end of the rally on time. Plus, everything we really want to see is in Mumbai or further south. So we had Chris go talk to the hotel concierge who found us a truck shipping company and we hired a truck to drive the three tuk tuks (through the night) to Mumbai while we got a taxi to the nearest large town (Ahmedabad) and flew on a hopper flight Mumbai. That saved us 4 days of driving in the freezing cold north (where there is little to see or do). Loading the three Tuk Tuks into a single truck was a marvel of engineering and involved lifting each vehicle in and out of the truck three times until the approximately 72 people helping got the tail gate to close (including an elderly goatherder who was adamant that his plan was best...how on earth would he know?... and several school boys who have clearly never driven a vehicle in their life but who also had strong opinions on the correct loading techniques). Shockingly, all three fit and headed off. We've gotten so attached to our vehicles that we were all sad to see them leave.... and crossed all fingers and toes for a safe arrival in Mumbai.
Having made that decision, we thus had some extra time to explore Mount Abu. Mount Abu which is a tourist destination for Indians. It's too far out of the way for Westerners but it's apparently very popular with local honeymooners. I can understand why, it is quite picturesque as it's a green hillside town built around a lake. Compared to where we have been the last few days, it felt like Shangri-La. We first walked around the town and through the market.
We were actually able to go into a store and buy potato chips and cookies and toothpaste (we have not seen a shop of any real description in days). We even found a cold Red Bull. Then we went to a Jain Temple complex of intricately carved marble temples. In fact, the temple took over a decade to complete and the workers were paid depending on how much dust they accumulated in their carving. So every worker carved as finely as he could to generate more marble dust. The stone is so thin in some places that it is almost translucent. They do not allow into the temple any cameras or menstruating women (yes, that's actually a sign at the front) so sorry - no photos to show. But here is me in the market area outside the complex.
We then had a lovely lunch as a nice restaurant in town where we ran into an elderly American man. He's been living in Mount Abu for the last 4 years. He was so excited to see English-speakers that he sat and chatted to us throughout the meal. He also told us what to see and do in town. We thus went out to the lake and took a ride on a tethered helium balloon which provided awesome views of the lake, the town and all of the surroudings.
It is hard to explain the colors of India. No matter how bleak and dusty and drab the surroundings, the colors are everywhere. And the children will break your heart.





















1 comment:

Derek Maingot said...

Yea... a nice long post... carry on kids!

 

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